Postcard From Kharkiv, Ukraine. Surviving The First Year. Enduring The Second Year. Preparing For The Third Year. Hopefully, Final Year.
Ending The Second Year, Beginning The Third Year
On 24 February 2022, the armed forces of the Russian Federation invaded and further invaded the territory of Ukraine in what Vladimir Putin, President of the Russian Federation (2000-2008 and 2012- ), defined as a Special Military Operation [SMO] then on 22 December 2022 he redefined as a war. The initial invasion of Ukraine by the armed forces of the Russian Federation was in part from the territory of Belarus.
The war between the Russian Federation and Ukraine did not commence on 24 February 2022. The roots began their trajectories on 20 February 2014 when the armed forces of the Russian Federation invaded the Crimean Peninsula and the area known as the Donbas Region (Donetsk Oblast and Luhansk Oblast).
22 February 2024
An early morning start for the five-hour high-speed train journey from Kyiv Central Station to Kharkiv Central Station. The Kyiv Central Train Station continues to evolve with additional passenger service offerings- from food to retail to children’s entertainment areas.
In this image, taken in a quiet side waiting area, an elderly woman covered in the flag of Ukraine slowly, deliberately, lifts sheets of paper from her satchel and holds them for a few moments at different locations on the map. She then seems to be in prayer.
A chilly morning. Still dark when departing the station, but quickly changing to a sunrise, partly obscured by clouds. Ninety minutes later, snow on the ground. The train seems to move at a much faster pace than a year ago and certainly two years ago. Arrival a few minutes early- not unusual for Ukrainian Railways. A special teabag offering from Ukrainian Railways- gift sets available in their retail location in the Kyiv Central Railway Station.
23 February 2024
A cold morning in Kharkiv, but warmer than usual winters.
Breakfast at the NEMO Hotel & Spa with Dolphins in Kharkiv. With the absence of the Kharkiv Palace Hotel due to destruction by a missile launched by the armed forces of the Russian Federation on 30 December 2023, a new adventure. This property is in the city center located in a park, adjoining the zoo. Attached to the hotel is an indoor/outdoor aquatic center for people (swimmers), dolphin performances (for people to watch), and dolphin experiences (for people to interact with dolphins). The service is terrific. The food well-presented and delicious. The team attentive and accommodating.
Outside of the hotel, children do what children do- they play while their parents watch them.
Unlikely is there a park anywhere which has as many trash receptacles as does the central park in Kharkiv. Approximately every twenty meters, these elegantly-designed receptacles are a reminder for guests to care for the area. Note the toppers to protect from snow and rain.
Construction cranes remain in place, but not operating. Construction crews could have dismantled them- if they collapse, considerable damage would result. The decision was to leave them in place. As such, they are symbols of the transformation that was and the transformation that will continue- they represent hope. More accurately, they represent determination and resilience.
24 February 2024
Entering the third year of the Russian Federation war with Ukraine.
Any visitor traveling within Ukraine since prior to 24 February 2022 through 2024 continues to be assaulted by rather than climatized to the continuing shifting in the commercial, economic, financial, and political landscape.
In Kharkiv, the wealthy are returning. They are conspicuous by the expensive vehicles they drive, including with the customized loudness of mufflers. They frequent expensive restaurants- particularly those with ownership connectivity to the politically powerful. These dining experiences are peers in terms of service and food quality and pricing with establishments in India, London, New York, and Paris. Shopping malls remain magnets for young people looking to meet-up with friends. Some stores are consistently busy; others empty. However, they are open.
In the park, a group of twenty young men stand, some with their hands clasped behind their backs, a sort of unofficial “at attention” before a group of ten men in civilian clothing, one reading to the group. These men are reporting for service in the armed forces of Ukraine. Interestingly, none of the ten men who are the organizers, those in charge, are in military clothing. Does this suggest the twenty young men are not volunteers, but have been collected by civilian police, military police, state security agents? None of the twenty young look eager to be where they are; they look resigned to an unknown fate. Then again, perhaps they do know their fate.
A group commemorating those lost since 24 February 2022. This day, many such groups walking throughout Kharkiv, with always a nearby police presence, including members of the “Dialogue Police” identifiable due to the English-language wording on their jackets.
At the new bar/restaurant Provocator, when ordering a hamburger, guests are presented with a pair of black rubber gloves. Why? So the hamburger may be handled without thoroughly messing-up hands. A brilliant idea!
The 30,000 square foot (2,800 square meters) СІЛЬПО (pronounced Silpo) supermarket remains bustling inside the luxury multi-story Nikolsky Mall in the center of Kharkiv. СІЛЬПО is Ukraine’s largest chain of large supermarkets and operated by Kyiv, Ukraine-based Fozzy Group. СІЛЬПО has 241 locations in sixty cities in Ukraine. Silpo reports revenues are rebounding to pre-24 February 2022 levels.
Think Austin, Texas-based Whole Foods (a subsidiary of Bellevue, Washington-based Amazon.com Inc.) but a more visually impressive and inviting footprint with larger selection of brands. For comparison, Whole Foods “real estate guidelines call for retail locations between 25,000 and 50,000 square feet for new stores, but the average size sits at about 40,000 square feet (via Statista).”
Whatever the most spoiled resident of Beverly Hills, California, might fancy (live lobsters, snails, oysters, cheeses, shrimp from Argentina and what must be the largest selection of coffees and teas), can likely be located at СІЛЬПО. The staff is extremely helpful.
Near the Nikolsly Mall is signage recognizing “Turkish Development” and a Doner restaurant. Turkiye-based companies were in Ukraine prior to 2022 and will continue to have a substantial commercial, economic, and financial presence in Ukraine.
A new restaurant… “Born In Berlin, Made In Berlin” street food.
On 30 December 2023, at approximately 6:00 pm, a missile fired by the armed forces of the Russian Federation impacted the roof of the Kharkiv Palace Hotel. Remarkably, no one died although there were injuries.
Impact of the missile onto businesses located across the street from the side of the Kharkiv Palace Hotel that was struck by the missile.
Sasha works at Beans & Brews in Kharkiv, Ukraine, which, in her opinion (and others), offers the finest cinamon rolls in the city. On 30 December 2023, at approximately 6:00 pm, Sasha was alone working; no customers. When a missile struck the roof of the Kharkiv Palace Hotel, which is approximately 100 meters away- with the distance separated by buildings, so no direct line-of-sight, the street-facing side windows of the small café were blown inward. Fortunately, Sasha was facing away from the windows at the time of the impact, so her injuries were due to shards of glass.
KFC, formerly known as Kentucky Fried Chicken, has reopened and is busy this day. The location is near Beans & Brews.
Sadly, due to yet-realized supply chain conditions, McDonald’s has yet to re-open in Kharkiv, although outlets have re-opened in other cities in Ukraine.
